24 Hours In - Hangzhou

The Sunday Age

Sunday July 15, 2007

Chris Vedelago

Hangzhou, about 180 kilometres south-west of Shanghai, is one of the top domestic tourist destinations in China, famous for its rich cultural history, local green tea and the picturesque lake.

7am

Hangzhou is a bustling metropolis of 6 million, a city defined by and driving China's economic boom. But beyond its expanding skyline lies West Lake, which has attracted visitors - including Marco Polo - since the city was founded more than 2200 years ago. West Lake's beauty has been immortalised in song, prose and art. There's no overstating how popular the place is - especially in the summer - so rise early to enjoy it. You can see the six-square-kilometre lake by boat, bicycle, motorised cart or bus, but foot is the best way. Three hours or so will give the brisk walker a chance to see the best of the lakeside, including crossing the causeway to Gushan Island and exploring its winding paths, old buildings, museums and gardens. There are 20 scenic lookouts, many with poetic names such as Melting Snow Hanging Over the Broken Bridge or Orioles Singing in Ripples of Willows. Several large pagodas/temples dominate the surrounding hills, but most are recent reconstructions and quite expensive to visit.

10.30am

The Grand Canal, started in the 5th century BC and maintained until the 19th century, is considered by some to be an engineering feat on par with the Great Wall, once stretching 1800 kilometres from Hangzhou to Beijing. Take the 30-minute water bus north from Wulin Square Station along the canal to the 370-year-old stone Gongchen Bridge. Displays in the nearby China Grand Canal Museum show what it once was like.

China Grand Canal Museum (Canal Culture Square, Jinhua Rd)

1pm

Lunch at Da Niang, a chain famous for its dumplings in a multitude of meat and vegetable combinations. Ten dollars will get you as much as you could possibly eat plus a drink.

Da Niang Dumpling (Tiyuchang Rd, Wulin Sq.)

2pm

For those who feel a little shopping wouldn't be remiss, Wulin Square is home to many quality Chinese department stores, and the connecting street, Yan'an Road, is building after building of fashion, gadget and homewares retailers. A block over is a 1.2 km stretch of Wulin Road hosting more than 50 women's fashion shops. For more traditional wares, Hangzhou China Silk Town boasts anything you might ever want made from this precious fabric.

Hangzhou China Silk Town (217 Xinhua Rd, 0571-8510-0192)

4pm

The restored classical Chinese architecture of Hefang Street offers a (touristy) glimpse into old Hangzhou, with the pedestrian thoroughfare stuffed full of souvenir and knick-knack shops, food stalls, and herbal medicine dealers. There are also plenty of tea shops in which to try the popular locally grown Dragon Well green tea.

6.30pm

You also shouldn't leave without trying the local Hangzhou cuisine, with specialties including West Lake fish in vinegar, braised fat-streaked pork, and shrimp served with Dragon Well tea leaves. A good place to try is Lao (Old) Hangzhou, although not a word of English is spoken by staff nor are there many pictures on the menu. It's the perfect chance to pull out the Mandarin phrasebook or just take your chances.

Lao Hangzhou (427 Wensan Rd)

8pm

Twilight or early evening is the perfect time to take a ride on one of the little boats that ply West Lake. Bargain hard for a one-way trip to Gushan island, which offers great night views of the cityscape and the chance for a pleasant walk back along the causeway towards the city. It's a nice, quiet way to round out the day before the bar hopping begins.

9pm

There's no shortage of places to drink and be merry in Hangzhou. They are principally concentrated along the entertainment strips of Shuguang and Nanshan roads. Many bars host events nights and offer discount drink specials depending on the day of the week, so you should consult the local expat mag, More Hangzhou Entertainment Guide, to see what's happening. A good place to kick things off is Maya Bar (try the snake liquor) or 1828, which brews its own beers. But don't forget to try West Lake beer which, with its unusual flavour, isn't to be missed.

Maya Bar (79 Shuguang Rd, 0571-8799-7628)

1828 (262 Nanshan Rd, 0571-8791-9020)

© 2007 The Sunday Age

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